On our final morning in New York City, my husband Tim and I paid a vist to Theodore Roosevelt's Birthplace, the best endowed site in the entire U.S. National Park Service. Little did I suspect that our call at this historic Victorian townhome at 28 East 20th Street in midtown Manhattan would so enthrall me that I'd almost miss the 12:35 p.m. departure of our train back to Washington, D.C.
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| Theodore Roosevelt's Birthplace (Creative Commons photo found on Wikipedia 26 April 2012.) |
The brownstone we saw is not the home where Roosevelt was born on October 27, 1858. That home was demolished in 1916 following decades of use as a storefront and office building. Roosevelt's father, concerned about the increasing commercialization of the neighborhood, had sold that home in 1872 and moved the family to a more fashionable address near Central Park.
Instead, what we toured was a five-story replica built on the same city lot by the Women's Roosevelt Memorial Association which was founded soon after T.R.'s death on January 6, 1919. The W.R.M.A. solicited donations to reconstruct the rowhouse, filling it with gifts of letters, furniture, household goods, books and other personal effects donated to the association by Roosevelt's family, friends and contemporaries before opening its doors to the public in 1923.
Forty years later in 1962, the W.R.M.A., which meantime had joined forces with the Theodore Roosevelt Association, donated the birthplace, along with its sizeable endowment, to the National Park Service.
Is it any wonder that park rangers now assigned to this post check all bags and do not permit tourists to roam its rooms apart from the company of a park ranger tour guide? I willingly surrendered my bag into their care in exchange for an intimate glimpse of Theodore Roosevelt's childhood.
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| Teddy Roosevelt, age 11, while visiting Paris where this photo was taken in 1870. (Public domain photo found on Wikipedia 27 April 2012.) |
"I wish to preach, not the doctrine of ignoble ease, but the doctrine of the strenuous life, the life of toil and effort, of labor and strife; to preach that highest form of success which comes, not to the man who desires mere easy peace, but to the man who does not shrink from danger, from hardship, or from bitter toil, and who out of these wins the splendid ultimate triumph."
~ Theodore Roosevelt, Jr. in a April 10, 1899 speech given in Chicago
In my opinion, no one embodies the American 'can do' spirit so much as our 26th President of the United State, Theodore Roosevelt. Teddy, a sickly, asthmatic, nearsighted child, embraced the advice given him by his father to live a strenuous life, and not only overcame his own physical frailities as he pursued his lifelong adventures, but simultaneously pulled America along with him onto the world's stage.
| A portrait of Teddy's father, Theodore Roosevelt, Sr., hangs in the basement trophy room |
His grandfather, Cornelius Van Schaack Roosevelt, called CVS by the family, was one of the wealthiest businessmen in New York City. He gave each of his five sons, including his youngest, Theodore Roosevelt, Sr., a luxurious home as a wedding gift. Theodore Sr.'s home at 28 E. 20th Street was right next door to that of his lawyer brother, Robert B. Roosevelt, CVS's fourth son. The extended Roosevelt family was a close-knit clan; the homes of all of CVS's sons were within blocks of the patriarch's Union Square mansion.
Our free walk-in tour was scheduled at 10 a.m. While we waited, we talked with the two park rangers on duty in the National Park Service basement reception room, an area that once housed the kitchen and service rooms of the mansion. We asked which books about T.R. on display in the facility's small bookstore they would recommend. Their endorsements were Island of Vice: Theodore Roosevelt's Doomed Quest to Clean Up Sin-Loving New York by Richard Zacks and River of Doubt: Theodore Roosevelt's Darkest Journey by Candice Millard which I had enthusiasically read last fall.
| "Establishing the Dead Line," a political cartoon depicting New York City Police Commissioner Theodore Roosevelt |
We also examined the hallway, hung with more than a dozen framed political cartoons, a visible resume of T.R.'s public service career which included:
* a stint on the U. S. Civil Service Commission,
* weeding out corruption as New York City Police Commissioner,
* an appointment as the Assistant Secretary to the Navy,
* service as Lieutenant-Colonel of the Rough Riders, the 1st United States Volunteer Cavalry in the Spanish American War,
* his election as Governor of the State of New York,
* his election as Vice-President of the United States,
* his succession to the Presidency upon the 1901 assassination of Pres. William McKinley,
* establishing 4 national parks and 18 national monuments,
* trust-busting the monopolies of Gilded Age titans,
* the suspension of the Coal Miners' Strike of 1902,
* securing U.S. rights to the Panama Canal in 1903,
* his election as a full-term President in 1904,
* mediating the end of the Russo-Japanese War and earning the 1906 Nobel Peace Prize,
* his retirement as one of America's most popular presidents in 1901, and
* his failed campaign as the Bull Moose Party candidate to win an unprecedented third presidential term in 1912.
At 10 a.m., National Park Service Ranger Michael Amato led the way up the stairs to the first floor where he treated us to an incredible tour of the home.
| On the right side of this landing is a connecting door into research library maintained by the NPS in the brownstone next door. |
| Ranger Amato favored us with a quick visit to the site's T.R. research collection. |
| Family Parlor |
| View from the front parlor through the family parlor into the rear dining room |
| Etched and stained glass pocket door |
| Dining Room |
| The Roosevelts could easily seat twelve people at their dining room table. |
| The door on the right conceals a dumbwaiter. |
| This dumbwaiter was a clever way to transport food, warm from the basement's kitchen, to the dining room. |
| Ranger Amato & Tim in the front parlor |
| Front parlor's fireplace with a needlepoint cushion on its hearth. |
| Front Parlor |
"My father, Theodore Roosevelt, was the best man I ever knew," Teddy would claim throughout his life as he strove to live up to his father's goodness. Yet, ironically, only the name of one Theodore Roosevelt would be remembered once his father's generation passed on.
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| Nursery |
| Mittie Bulloch Roosevelt's portrait hangs in the front bedroom on the 2nd floor. |
A bookish boy, Teddy loved nothing more than to lose himself in a good book. He and his siblings were all schooled at home so when Theodore Jr. entered Harvard as a 5-foot 8-inch tall freshman weighing only 125 pounds, it was his first exposure to peers outside of his family. His Harvard classmates hardly knew what to make of him, but even though Teddy made no lifelong friends during his time there, his lively, energetic personality carried him through this first experience of living apart from the Roosevelt clan.
| The Trophy Room |
| T.R.'s Western Saddle |
In the following video, National Park Ranger Michael Amato describes how Teddy Roosevelt was shot at close range by a psychotic New York City saloonkeeper as Roosevelt greeted a crowd in Milwaukee during his presidential campaign in 1912. T.R.'s doubled-over 50-page speech which he'd stashed in his overcoat's pocket was torn by the bullet hole and his dented steel eyeglass case deflected the assassin's bullet. Those items, along with the shirt he wore that night, are part of the Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace collection.
Astonishingly, the wounded Roosevelt insisted upon finishing his speech that evening, even with the bullet still lodged in his side. However, this failed assassination attempt slowed the momentum of Roosevelt's campaign as T.R. spent the next eight days in a Chicago hospital. Roosevelt finished the 1912 presidential election in second place behind winner Woodrow Wilson but ahead of William Howard Taft, the incumbent President who was T.R.'s hand-picked successor in 1909.
Bully for you, Teddy!
Postscript: Tim and I left Theodore Roosevelt's Birthplace so spellbound by our tour that I failed to claim my bag from the reception desk. I remembered its loss when we entered our hotel room where we'd planned to grab our luggage, check out by noon and walk to NYC's Penn Station to catch our Amtrak train home to Washington, D.C. Instead, Tim trundled our bags to the station while I made a mad dash back to T. R.'s birthplace.
I arrived in Penn Station with just 5 minutes to spare before our train departed.



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